Introducing the Threadbender, Diana Ackerman

Diana and her groom, Mike.

Cherished online is delighted to offer the expert guidance of Diana Ackerman (www.thethreadbender.com) through free consultations for our clients. If you’ve found a Cherished gown you love but worry whether it can be altered to fit, or if you are considering restyling a Cherished gown, Diana has all the answers.

A remarkably talented and creative seamstress, Diana has sewing and alterations in her blood - literally. Her mother, an accomplished seamstress herself, began teaching Diana while she was still a toddler - sewing oversized buttons onto felt squares with yarn. Her Hungarian grandparents were also accomplished artisans. Diana’s grandfather worked as a tailor in the garment district of New York City, and her grandmother created beautiful traditional embroideries and was also an expert in knitting and crochet work. Her family were natural-born teachers and Diana absorbed it all, learning the old techniques of fine sewing and tailoring which are all but lost today.

Diana has been offering her talents to brides for the past 15 years, and specializes in vintage gowns. She also makes gorgeous custom veils, and can embellish a gown or veil with embroidery, beading, and other exquisite finishes. We’ve asked Diana a few general questions about some of the options available for modifying a vintage gown. To arrange your own private consultation, simply contact Diana through her web site.

Even a 30's gown of delicate lace can be altered and re-styled for a unique couturier look

Q. Just what is possible in altering a vintage gown?

Diana: Just about anything is possible. Altering small gowns to fit the modern figure can be a challenge, but there are many options. Most vintage gowns have wide seam allowances, and fabric can often be taken from the generous skirts in many vintage gowns to enlarge and even re-shape the bodice without making a noticeable difference in the way the skirt looks. The goal is to alter the dress in such a way as to make it look as if nothing’s been done at all.

 Gowns can usually be enlarged by several sizes - and the gown that is way too small can be made to fit beautifully by adding an adjustable corset-style back. A gown can be lengthened by up to 4 inches with the addition of a vintage lace panel, and the effect is breath-taking. Even a 30's bias-cut gown can be enlarged or lengthened successfully.

Q. What kind of challenges do vintage gowns present over altering modern gowns?

Diana: Actually, modern gowns can often be more challenging. Modern construction techniques are often overly complicated and difficult to work with - and of course, the modern fabrics - even expensive ones, are usually inferior to the vintage ones. The main concern with a vintage gown is that the fabric is sound to begin with. Many brides who buy gowns on eBay are disappointed that the gown’s fabric has deteriorated to the point where it’s too risky to try major alterations. Sadly, old perspiration stains can actually eat through the fabric causing it to disintegrate when cleaning is attempted. But if the gown’s in good overall shape, a vintage gown rarely presents challenges that can’t be overcome. I feel it’s truly an honor to work on the old gowns - giving them new life for a new generation.

Diana used a number of techniques to restore and restyle the bodice of this badly damaged antique gown.

Q. You offer your services to brides all over the country using a unique long-distance system you’ve devised. But if a bride wants to use a local seamstress, how can she find one and how can she evaluate the seamstress’s skills?

Diana: Fabric stores will often have the names of local seamstresses. Be sure to ask if they do wedding gown alterations, and if they have ever altered/restored a vintage gown. Make sure the person has a portfolio of their work you can examine and ask for a list of clients you can contact.

Also, make sure their work and fitting space is clean. Ask them to give you several fittings ,and ask to be included in all the steps or processes of the alterations. Tell them you want all the fabric scraps. Most importantly, make sure you like the ‘vibes’ of the person/company - your gown is a collaboration between the two of you and a good working relationship is crucial.

Q. What kind of help can you offer a Cherished customer in a telephone consultation?

Diana: We can both be on the computer at once and look over the gowns the bride is interested in together. We can discuss the various options for altering and/or restyling, and any ideas the bride might have as to changes she wants make. I can suggest ideas and options to make it fit her, and give her an idea of the scope of the work that would need to be done. I can also provide guidance about the types of veils or headpieces that would work well with a particular gown, and about bustle styles that would be most attractive for a long-trained gown.